All Of My Friends Are Eating Meat Again

What happened to the days of swearing off steak for the sake of everything else?

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Winnie broke her 9 years of vegetarianism for a chicken liver parfait from a wanky restaurant. She thought she had a brain tumor but it was only anemia. Chile was pescatarian for 15 years and is now obsessed with goat. Arielle confessed she had been flirting with meat a little, dabbling with fish and bone broth, but knew she had dismount her 6 year vegan high horse when she went out for lunch with a friend and ate Bún Riêu- a noodle soup made from crab, pork dumplings and blood.


Abbey spent 10 years as a vegan, converting originally to annoy her mother, which feels like a good enough reason to deprive yourself for a decade. She dm’d me: veganism is over. Why? Because life is short, there are so many bigger things going on in the world. Why do I need to worry about what I eat?


For years my friends and I didn’t eat meat. It wasn’t a collective decision. It was just that kind of thing where you look around and everyone’s gulping water like they’ve been lost in a desert for years after gnawing on a drywall textured falafel wrap. At dinner parties, you never had to tell anyone your dietary needs because everything was also so pumpkin souped and lentil dahl-ed. The only meat we knew was made from ingredient lists that looked like phone numbers. And we all claimed we’d never ever go back.

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